Out of Highgate Village and down the hill from London's highest point, the Bull sits on the western side of North Hill next to white modernist masterpiece Highpoint. The Bull is a gastropub, but one that errs heavily on the restaurant side of the divide. You won't find tables of people drinking in here, and the waiter will pour the wine. The terrace outside and the downstairs fill up quickly with chatter, whilst the upstairs dining room is more polished and grander with its high ceilings and large windows. The menu boasts a mix of traditional and flair. Forgotten dishes like braised pigs' cheeks are given space on the table next to fusion successes like pork belly in a Madeira and sultana jus. The special's board offers some extra options - we tried a game pie which was flavoursome, but refined rather than hearty. Tradition was back on the dessert menu too, with options of spotted dick and a deliciously custardy French-style fruit tart. Topped off with attentive and discreet service this is class act, but don't go expecting pub prices. Our only other gripe was the lack of an area to carry on the revelry after a meal. Nevertheless, the Wrestlers opposite is a fabulous drinking hole, which will always give you one for the road.
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