Just like when you sit down at Yo Sushi! the first thing the waiter asks is whether you've been here before. It's not impertinence, intended to make you feel like a newcomer, it's just that the menu takes some explaining. He'll tell you that this is "French tapas" with a choice of twenty starters designed to be shared - a very convivial way of eating and one which ensures that you don't suffer from food envy as your dining companions tuck into something that looks far more delicious than yours. That's highly unlikely to happen here though, with the food of such a high standard that there is, thankfully, not a single dud dish. With sister restaurant in Nice an established celebrity favourite, co-owner of Zuma and Roka Arjun Waney has brought Francesco Mattioli - the subject of a televised Gordon Ramsay grilling - in to manage the place; it's a high profile combination and one that really works. Chef Raphael Duntoye's scallop carpaccio and the famous deep-fried courgette flowers are enough to transport you to Nice. Despite the high celebrity-spotting potential - Max Clifford has paid a visit and Sir Elton, Bono, Liz Hurley, Rod Stewart and Roger Moore are all regulars at the original - it's not overly stuffy and, in typically French style, the food is the thing.