Yet another conversion of a grimy and atmospheric East end boozer into a gastropub, but in this case it's been done so well that it's hard to feel too resentful, even though there's nothing here that moves far from the indentikit gastropub template. It's a bright open space, with lots of wood, contemporary art on the walls and Czech beers on tap, while the menu features such New British staples as belly pork with lentils, fish stew, and steak and kidney pie. They've obviously got somebody good in the kitchen, because the food is well above par (though a couple of cheaper options wouldn't go amiss). The location and friendly staff ensure a bustling atmosphere, which strikes a good balance between restaurant and pub.
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