Your friendly neighbourhood Italian restaurant (Papa Luigi's, in my case) has been transplanted to the heart of Soho with its menu left largely untouched, and the booze still cheap and cheerful - though the decor is a good deal smarter. Simple dishes rich in garlic, olive oil and soft cheeses are the mainstay of Aldo Zilli's Soho flagship, and thoroughly delicious they are too. Big portions, and waiters who aren't afraid to let you know exactly what they think of you complete the picture. In fact the only thing missing is the budget prices. It is a little galling to pay so much for food that you could cook at home, but it is very hard not to enjoy yourself in the convivial dining room, which is something that cannot be said of most Soho establishments in this price bracket.