The Barnes set (being the right side of Richmond they must have one) would like to keep this lovely eatery to themselves I imagine - it does, after all, have everything for a thoroughly enjoyable evening. There's a buzziness about it, soft lighting and modern art and a perfectly-balanced chef. Ed Wilson has none of the celebrity hype but all of the right credentials (The Wolseley, Orrery, Galvin Bistrot de Luxe) so it follows that he can rustle up some pretty decent dishes too. Indeed, there's nowhere better in this part of town to go for poached halibut, grilled veal kidney or confit of duck leg to name but a few of his seasonal creations. The desserts are classics - panna cotta and creme brulee are a welcome departure from weird modern fusions and oh-so-tempting to over-indulge in. A great value set menu means it'd be rude not to.
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