Cheek by jowl with Buckingham Palace and owned by the same family for three generations, The Goring is part of the British establishment. Appropriately, given its royal neighbour, Viscount Linley is responsible for the decor in the restaurant, his signature classic yet elegant style making the dining room surprisingly unstuffy. In the kitchen, chef Derek Quelch, here for almost eight years, specialises in classic English dishes like Eggs Drumkilbo, an Edwardian dish involving poached lobster and shrimp, mixed with cold hard-boiled eggs, stirred into an aspic/mayonnaise mixture, flavoured with worcester sauce, tomato paste, anchovy paste and hot sauce and once a favourite of the late Queen Mother. Surely tastes better than it sounds. The Lobster Thermidor Omelette is also a signature dish and firm favourite, the type of thing that ensures the dining room is always full.
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