For so long a running joke about depressing suburban living, Croydon was a surprising place for Malcolm John, chief patron of the Vacherin, to open his second restaurant. It is, of course, utterly wonderful, with John's intimate knowledge of the slow processes of French peasant cookery creating miracle after miracle. The cassoulet is a rich, melting highlight, where every mouthful produces a different combination of beans, sausages and duck. A brilliant cheese plate, well-chosen wine list and a comfortable, relaxed dining room all add to the picture of a neighbourhood restaurant just as complete as Le Vacherin. For the first time, Croydon has a destination restaurant, and low prices ensure that, even this far from Central London, booking is essential most nights.